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Santorini Travel Guide and Helpful Tips

Santorini is one of the most beautiful places in the world to escape, relax and take in the gorgeous scenery. It’s a place where everyone needs to visit at least once, so here’s everything you need to know about the island.

Its gleaming, whitewashed buildings, blue domed churches, and world famous sunsets have made Santorini one of the most popular, romantic and luxurious locations. The Greek island was formed by a volcanic eruption around 3,600 years ago, and the result is unspoiled views of the sparkling blue Aegean Sea from cliffside villages, a geological uniqueness, (it’s the only inhabited caldera), and an enchanting escape for travelers. Santorini is a renowned hotspot for those seeking adventure, romance and relaxation, so, if it’s on your list of must see places, read below for some great travel tips.

One of the beautiful images you’ll see on the walk from Firá to Oia

When To Go

Tourist season in Santorini is June to September because the weather is warm, sunny, and great for lounging on the beach. If you want to miss the chaotic crowds, book your trip for late April and May. It will be a little cooler, and you probably won’t be sunbathing, but it’s a good time to take in the sights without dealing with so many people.

Firostefani

Getting To Santorini

If you’re island hopping, you can take airlines like Aegean or Olympic Airlines for a reasonable price. You can also take a ferry, which can be cheaper depending on where you’re coming from, but it takes much longer. If you’re arriving from a big city in Europe, you can probably fly directly into Santorini. Coming from anywhere else, it can be difficult and expensive, so it might be better to fly into Athens, and then take a flight from there to Santorini.

RELATED: Why You Shouldn’t Ride the Donkeys in Santorini 

Getting Around Santorini

Buses are inexpensive and easy. Most are air conditioned and comfortable.

Taxis are always around and not too difficult to get, but when it’s prime tourist season, they can be harder to flag one down. There are also taxi stands you can go to and wait for one to become available. Prices aren’t too bad, but it is more costly. For instance, it’s €20 to go from Firá to Oia by cab one-way, or €2 for the bus.

Renting a car is the best option in Santorini if you don’t want to rely on public transportation, or have limited time. Just make sure to ask if your hotel has parking. You will also need an international driver’s license, so do your research on the best way to get one from your city. Not all signs are in English, and Greeks drive crazy, so be prepared.

RELATED: Video-Volunteering at the Corfu Donkey Rescue

Scooters and ATVS are a popular choice with tourists, but be careful. The ATVs I saw didn’t go that fast, and drivers had a tendency to hold up traffic. I was also told they can flip easily.

Walking is also something a lot people do, so bust out your most comfortable shoes and enjoy the beautiful sites by foot. Plus, it’s free!

***Donkeys and mules are used to transport people or their luggage from the old port up a steep windy set of 600 stairs to the top of a mountain in Firá (the capital of Santorini). Please do not ride them.

They have no shade from the direct sunlight, no access to water, they carry riders that exceed an appropriate weight limit and are forced to work with severe wounds that’s caused by poor-quality equipment. They are whipped, strongly prodded with wooden sticks by the owners, and work long hours in extreme heat. This is unacceptable, and it’s abuse. It is cruel and inhumane to do this to animals, so please don’t be part of the problem.

Unhappy Donkey in Firá
Photo By: Angela Dawson

Instead, you can take the cable car for just a few euros up to Firá, which is only a five minute ride. However, it can be a long wait to get back down so plan accordingly.

Local Flavor

There is a variety of food you’ll find on the island, but main staples include fresh seafood, mousakas (eggplant baked with minced meat and béchamel sauce), stuffed tomatoes, stuffed grape leaves (dolmades), and of course, the Greek salad, which consists of cucumber, tomatoes, onions, feta cheese and olives, with a touch of olive oil, salt and pepper.

Dolmades and Bruschetta with Delicious Fresh Tomatoes

For spirits, Ouzo is the beverage of choice by locals. It’s a strong, sweet alcoholic drink, which is made from the byproducts of grapes after they’ve been used for wine making. It’s not typically mixed with juice or anything else, so it’s incredibly pungent, and was too much for me, but give it a try. It’s meant to be savored, so sip it slowly. Don’t have it with meal, because it doesn’t typically compliment Greek dishes, but pair it with smaller bites like grilled shrimp, octopus, cheese or veggies. Don’t drink it on an empty stomach, and enjoy it cold.

What To See And Do

Watch the sunset in Oia—one of the most infamous towns on the island. This is where everyone goes to see the sun disappear, and it’s breathtaking.

Walk the path from Firá to Oia, which takes two to three hours. You’ll stroll along the caldera’s cliff and encounter the most picturesque views.

Go wine tasting at one of the local wineries.

Check out Red Beach, which is arguably one of the most famous and remarkable points of interest to see. It’s not a place to layout or walk with sandals because there’s a lot of pebbles and rough terrain. However, you can snorkel and marvel at the stunning rock formations. There are a couple of food stands that serve drinks and snacks.

Heather Newgen at Red Beach

For those looking to lounge by the beach and swim, head to Black Beach in Perissa. During the summer, it’s one of the busiest beaches in Santorini because of it’s crystal clear waters, sun-beds with umbrellas, and fun atmosphere. This is the spot to grab cocktails, play beach volleyball, and listen to famous DJs from all over the world. You can also jet ski and do other water sports here.

Black Beach

There’s a second Black Beach in the small village of Kamári, and it’s also a lively cool vibe.

Take a cruise around the island. There are different ones to choose from, but the most popular is the half-day tour, which includes a really nice meal and organized stops at the hot springs—you’ll actually get get to swim for a few minutes—and the White Beach, which you can only get to by boat. It’s around $130 a person, but so worth it.

Swim at Amoudi Bay beneath Oia. There is no beach here, but jumping from the rocks into the best swimming spot on Santorini makes it worthwhile.

Take a moonlit walk around Firá or Oia.

If you’re a diver, there are amazing sites to explore. There are plenty of diving centres in Kamári, (Navy’s Waterworld, Volcano Dive Center), or near Pýrgos, (Aegean Divers, Santorini Dive Centre), who can take you out.

Go to Mt. Profítis Ilías, which is the highest point of the island. There, you’ll find a monastery and great views of the island.

Visit Ancient Thira and explore the ruins of Hellenistic temples.

See the archaeological site of Akrotiri.

Where To Eat

I mostly ate in Oia and Firá so I could enjoy the stunning views, but know that it will be more expensive. I was fine with it, because who knows when I’ll go back to Greece, so I wanted to make the most of my trip. Waiters will lurk around the entrance to the restaurants trying to lure customers in, promising the best table in the house. I didn’t find it to be too aggressive, but make sure you see a menu first and are alright with the prices before sitting down. For budget travelers, there are supermarkets to pick up groceries, or stands you can purchase gyros for just a few euros, so don’t ever feel obligated to eat out at fancy places. For a list of specific good restaurants click here.

View from Vanilla in Firostefani where I had my final meal in Greece

Where To Stay

The first decision you should make is whether you want to stay near the beach or the caldera. Oia, Imerovigli, Firá and Firostefani are towns to check out if you want a caldera view. This is also where you will find the best luxury hotels. The caldera towns have trendier restaurants and places to hang out, while the beach towns, like Kamári, are more relaxed, less expensive and have a feel closer to the other Greek islands. I stayed in Firá at the Kamares Apartments and loved it.

Kamares Apartments
Photos By: Angela Dawson

I had my own balcony with private hot tub. It was around $250 a night, and that included breakfast. As much I like being near the beach, I feel like you can do that anytime—but when else are you going to have a view of the caldera?

Random Tips

Hotels will arrange an airport pickup for you at an additional cost if that’s something you’re interested in.

Don’t buy olive oil if you’re flying Aegean/Olympic Airlines unless it’s secured in a wooden case. They recently implemented a new rule that states you can no longer carry or check on olive oil because it’s flammable. I had no idea that was the case, and when I was on my way to Santorini from Lesvos, I had to throw all of mine away. I was crushed to say the least.

The best club and nightlife scene is in Firá

There are a lot of steps in Oia and Firá. It’s not wheelchair friendly, so if you’re someone with physical disabilities, know it will be challenging.

According to locals, tips are not expected, but are also not included in the price of anything. So, if you enjoy the service, it’s appropriate to tip 10-12 percent.


Moria Camp – A Look at What Life is Like for Syrian Refugees in Greece

In his temporary home inside the Moria Camp, Ahmad struggles to find room in a small tent where 10 others are stacked side by side. He lies awake most nights, too afraid to sleep. “Children are being raped and assaulted. It is a mess. I sometimes I forget that I am in Europe,” he revealed. Ahmad has no personal belongings, no job and no hope. He’s been on the Greek island of Lesvos for almost two years now, living in the Moria Camp. This is his story.

In 2015 Europe experienced an influx of people escaping war-torn Syria and Ahmad, whose last name will not be used for safety reasons, was one of the millions who fled his country. In an exclusive interview with The Voluntourist, Ahmad details his experience as a Syrian refugee and what his daily life is like inside Greece’s Moria Camp.

The Voluntourist: Why did you leave Syria?

Ahmad: I left Syria because of the war. I am a young man and if I did not leave than they will take me to join the army with [the] government or with groups against government. I don’t like fighting or war. I want to live in peace. I don’t want to be part of corruption or killing and I don’t want this to be in my heart that I do something bad. I have relatives maybe there, but I have no connection to anyone in Syria. The electricity comes and go. [The] last time I speak to family [was] maybe four months ago. I don’t know what happen to them now if they have no phone anymore or if something happened to them I really don’t know. I left my country in 2016. I left with my young brother and my cousin from my father’s side. The rest of my family is gone.

The Voluntourist: How long how you been in Greece?

Ahmad: I arrived in Greece beginning of 2017.

Lesvos, Greece Photo by: Heather Newgen

The Voluntourist: How many people are at the Moria Camp?

Ahmad: I hear now there is maybe 8,000 people in the Moria Camp, but I don’t know for sure.

The Voluntourist: Are people able to leave the camp freely? Can they come and go as they please?

Ahmad: We can leave camp freely. It is 1 euro to take bus to the city because there is nothing next to Moria Camp. People don’t always go outside Moria Camp because it is 1 euro going and 1 euro to come back. We receive 90 euro [a month] so only imagine if we go out every day.  It is 60 euro a month for travel.

A family of refugees play by the beach in Lesvos
Photo by: Heather Newgen

The Voluntourist: Is there school for the kids?

Ahmad: There is no school for children, but now there is NGO in Moria Camp for children. They do one hour of learning.

The Voluntourist: What do people do all day since they can’t work and there’s no school?

Ahmad: How we spend our day if no work and no school available we are waiting. I give you example of what I mean. We are very bored. We have nothing to do. What we do is we stand in line, any line. Morning wake up at 5:00am or 6:00am so [we] have time to stand in line for breakfast. We wait one or two hours for food in [the] food line. Maybe at 10:00am we line up to go see doctor. There are showers in Moria but it is very busy. Sometimes it takes me four hours to wait to shower. Sometimes I can’t because it’s too busy. It is not a good showers, [they are] very dirty. But the Greek cleaning come and do good job to clean, but it gets dirty so fast because there’s too many people in the camp. We wait in line for hours then we go back to line for lunch. After [we] go to see a lawyer and ask questions. Sometimes we ask questions not important, but we just want a change because we [are] bored. Our whole life in Moria is waiting in line. It has too many people in the camp.

Refugees waiting in long lines inside the Moria Camp
Photo by: Ahmad

The Voluntourist: What are the conditions like in the Moria Camp?

Ahmad: Very bad. I don’t know why I am still here. Everyone else who came the same time as me has left. I am the only one, me and my brother. My brother is 19 I am 25. The food is bad. The conditions are bad. I live in a tent outside of Moria in the Olive Grove area. This place is really bad because in the winter it rains a lot. My tent is all water and also it is cold and windy. In my tent there is 10 people with me inside. The tent is not big we sometime sleep side by side. I am waiting for my decision but I don’t have paperwork from my doctor. I try to speak to a psychiatrist, but he does not give me appointment. He keeps postponing every time I go to him. There is fighting, a lot of fighting in camp. People I know who come at first are very good people never do drugs or bad things. But being here a long time, it makes you crazy. You feel like prisoner. You start doing bad things, maybe drugs. Many of my friends do drugs because they want to forget. There is fighting always between groups Afghan, Arab, always fights. At night time no organization in Moria. I try to go to the city because Moria at night is scary [and] problems happen a lot. At night if I am in Moria Camp I will be not sleeping maybe until 4:00am because I feel afraid to sleep in Moria because of fighting or because of problems. I sleep with my money in my underwear because I am afraid. People here are desperate. Sometimes people maybe can come to your tent with a knife and say give me all your money. I hear this happen a lot. For me it never happen, but I am afraid of this. This once happen to my friend. A group come in with knife they say give me everything. They beat my friend. My friend went to the UN and tell police but nothing happen. They said sorry we can’t help you. when I go to lawyer lawyer says UN should protect you. I go to the UN and they say no sorry. Everywhere I go I hear the word “sorry.” “Sorry we can’t help you.” “Sorry you must wait.” “Sorry this is how Greece is”. “Sorry Moria Camp is a bad representation of Europe.” I am sure everything in Moria Camp is not so good. Not so legal.

A tent outside the Moria Camp in Lesvos, Greece where refugees stay
Photo by: Ahmad

The Voluntourist: How are you treated by locals in Greece?

Ahmad: Very bad. A lot of bad looks and people not smiling. When they see refugees they look angry. They say, “why you here.” I try to go get haircut in city the man said to me, “no you need documents to cut hair.” The police are very not nice to us. One time I walking next to the taxi [and the] taxi man say to another taxi, “this boy steal from your taxi.” I said, “no I did not steal.” They called the police and the police come and humiliate me. I say, “I did not steal. Look at the camera because there camera on street and [you’ll] see I did not steal.” The police, said, “okay go go.” He did not say sorry of accusing me of doing something I didn’t do, but some locals are nice. They care and try to help, but sometimes I feel like they think we ruined their country.

The Voluntourist: You said you’re given 90 euros a month. Who gives it to you?

Ahmad: It is from UN. We register every month for cash assistance program. If you forget to sign up you lose your money for next month. You must sign up the start of every month. The Greek government doesn’t give any money to refugees.

An entrance to Moria Camp
Photo by: Ahmad

The Voluntourist: I understand all of the money goes towards your medication. What medication are you taking and are you getting proper medical attention?

Ahmad: I have to take medication for my stomach. I have a problem where I can’t eat food [with] spice or with rice or with bread. I have [an] extremely sensitive stomach. I take medication for this problem, but I must buy my own meals to cook because I can’t eat the food in the Moria Camp. The food is very unhealthy for me. It has a lot of salt, rice and pasta. I also take medication for my bad thoughts. I think a lot [about] the things I see in my country and people dying. Sometimes I can’t sleep. Sometimes I want to cry because I want to forget. I take this medication because it makes me relax. I couldn’t see a doctor in the camp because appointment always is postponed so I had to pay 50 euros to see a private doctor in the city. He prescribed me this medication.

The Voluntourist: I also understand you were selling coffee to earn an extra income and the Greek police stopped you from doing so. Why?

Ahmad: The police stopped me because it is illegal to work and not pay taxes. Also because it’s a health code violation. I wish I could work and pay taxes, but no one wants to give me a job. But you know why I am sad? I am sad because they say this is illegal, but the Moria camp is not illegal? Moria camp is of course against all laws and there is no health code here.

The Voluntourist: What do you want people to know about refugees in Greece, the Moria Camp and your situation?

Ahmad: It is very hard in Greece it is very hard. Greece is a beautiful country but not all the people are beautiful. People can be very racist here. They get angry fast, especially the police. They are violent you know when I see the police here I feel the same scary feeling I have when I see army in Syria. It is sad because police is supposed to protect me and others, but it is the opposite here. They see us in a bad way always. I want people to know that yes we left the war and we reached Europe, but it doesn’t mean we are okay. In fact the situation here makes anyone not be able to heal. There are people who have PTSD and anxiety nightmares and they get no help no medical help. Children are being raped and assaulted. It is a mess. I sometimes I forget that I am in Europe.

A family of refugees play by the beach in Lesvos
Photo by: Heather Newgen

The Voluntourist: What can others to do help you?

Ahmad: Just to be aware to know that refugees are more than refugees. To realize that we are humans that we are desperate to live. That we want to build ourselves, that we don’t want to always be charity, that we want to accomplish and be proud of ourselves. I want people to help fight for our rights. To let Greece realize we are humans, to realize that if they were in our situation they will also want to open up coffee shops and open up barber shops. They are trying to have some sort of reality here. They want to feel normal or occupy their time. Imagine being in Moria camp 24/7 and not know when you get out. There is nothing to do. Of course you want to try to make something of yourself or you want to do something like work. When a person is sitting for hours and days and months and years doing nothing they will feel useless they will feel they don’t do anything. But being able to work or feel like you are working allows you to feel like you are doing something to support yourself and your family, that you are fighting and you are not giving up.


Costa Rica Travel Tips – The Voluntourist Travel Guide

Stunning scenery, endless adventures and cheap direct flights from the U.S. have made Costa Rica one of the most desirable travel destinations. While it’s generally a safe country for tourists, that doesn’t mean you should totally let your guard down. Here’s a few Costa Rica travel tips to help make your trip unforgettable, but in a good way!

By: Kelly Roberson

Costa Rica Photo by: Kelly Roberson

Lush rainforests, beautiful beaches, epic surf spots, vibrant cities, and diverse national parks is what Costa Rica is all about. The ‘pura vida’ laid back lifestyle mixed with the landscape, the warmth of the locals, and the fact that the country hasn’t had a military since 1949, makes it easy to believe how Costa Rica has been ranked the happiest country in the world for a few years now.

Safety–Costa Rica Travel Tips 

Costa Rica is a safe country. But just like any time you travel, it’s important to be aware of your surroundings and your belongings. The main concern with safety is in major cities, at bus stations, and in the more touristy towns. Specifically San Jose, Quepos, Jaco, Tamarindo, Limon, and Puerto Viejo. In rainforest areas and national parks, especially in Manuel Antonio, watch out for theft by locals. And by locals I mean monkeys. Monkeys like to steal things especially when their targets leave their bags on the beach unattended. They are mostly looking for food, but I have seen tourists running out of the water after monkeys carrying their entire backpacks into the jungle.

Costa Rica
Photo by: Kelly Roberson

What to Do–Costa Rica Travel Tips  

There is no lack of adventure here. You can surf some of the best waves, zipline across cloud forests, hike to waterfalls or volcanoes, face rapids white water rafting, go whale watching starting in October, or just relax on the beach practically all year long. Make sure to bring water shoes to protect your feet in the waterfalls. It’s worth picking up a pair. Another thing to be mindful of is the steep price to enter the waterfalls. The Catarata Del Toro is $14 per person.

Cost–Costa Rica Travel Tips 

The waterfalls aren’t the only pricey thing to watch out for. Despite the affordable direct flights you can catch from the U.S., Costa Rica is the most expensive country in Central America. Restaurants add a 10% service charge and a 13% tax to your bill. Your total will be 23% more than you planned on so no need for extra tipping unless you want to.

Getting Around–Costa Rica Travel Tips 

Traveling throughout Costa Rica is relatively simple and safe when you know how to get around. Despite it’s name SJO, the airport is located in the city of Alajuela, not in the capital of San Jose. If you are short on time and have a budget that allows for it, airlines like NatureAir make it convenient to reach other small airports throughout the country. However, if you are taking a quick flight to the Pacific or Caribbean side, be prepared to fly in a 10-12 seat plane and to pay extra for any luggage you have.

Costa Rica
Photo by: Kelly Roberson

If you have a little more time to explore, the cheapest option ends up being by bus. Since there is not one central bus station in San Jose, you’ll have to check which station takes you where before you make any assumptions. For example, it would seem that Puerto Viejo which is on the Caribbean side would be a destination at the Caribe Station, but that is not the case. Click here for a helpful guide to bus stations in the Costa Rica. It is best to buy tickets online or at the station beforehand and remember to get there at least 15 minutes early to be ready to board with a seat, even though they are assigned on your ticket. Some busses aren’t direct and if people are getting on and off they won’t care which seat is which. Plus, you don’t want to end up standing for hours since some busses pack people on. Headphones are also an important item to have while traveling on any mode of transportation, unless you want to hear reggaeton blasting from a portable speaker at 6:30am.

Private shuttles are also available throughout the country, but they are much more expensive. Shuttles are a good option if you are traveling with a group and are able to negotiate a decent rate.

Costa Rica
Photo by: Kelly Roberson

Taxis–Costa Rica Travel Tips 

Taking taxis can be risky and can get quite expensive since they charge by time, not distance. Some taxi drivers can be very aggressive as well, especially at airports and bus stations. Some drivers have also been known to scam riders by telling them the hostel or hotel they’re trying to reach is booked, then take them to a place to stay where they receive commission from the owners instead. One plus is that Uber has become popular in most cities and almost always proves to be cheaper than a cab.

Car Rental–Costa Rica Travel Tips

If you’re looking to rent a car, it is recommended to walk in or call a rental place directly versus booking a rental car on websites. They may honor the price you paid online, but will then tell you that insurance is mandatory and will up the price by $40 or more a day. Also, some roads throughout the country will need a car with 4WD, especially during the rainy season. Roads are on the more narrow side here and even though locals know how to navigate them with ease, they will not stop for pedestrians so be careful when crossing streets without a crosswalk. Honking is also very common, but it’s more of a polite way to say hello, thank you, or pura vida while passing another driver.

You must have a third party rental insurance, which is more than likely not covered by your credit card company. So beware of of inexpensive the car rental price is online because that doesn’t include the insurance you’ll need.

Costa Rica
Photo by: Kelly Roberson

Currency–Costa Rica Travel Tips

One convenient thing to remember is that most everywhere in Costa Rica takes US dollars or debit/credit cards and if necessary you will get change in their currency, Colones. It is not necessary to change money in the airport, especially since they may charge you more to do so, however the bills here are fun to have since they are colorful and feature Costa Rican wildlife.

How to Dress–Costa Rica Travel Tips

Dress is not a major concern, but lightweight long sleeves and pants are recommended in the rainforest because of mosquitoes and rain jackets come in handy quite often. Other than that, whatever you feel comfortable in works just fine.

Costa Rica is a country full of breathtaking landscapes, warm people, diverse wildlife, incredible beauty, adventure, and lots of fun. Whether you are hitting one or two destinations or traveling throughout the entire country, you will be able to do so with ease. Keep in mind that the pura vida lifestyle is contagious and you may never want to leave, so pack accordingly.


Brazil Safety Tips: What to Know Before Going

One of the first things people ask about Brazil is if it’s safe. Most tourists have a trouble-free experience, but to alleviate any concerns here’s a few Brazil safety tips to follow.

By: Jenny Karakaya

It is said that Rio is one of the sexiest cities in the world and I concur whole-heartedly. Having traveled throughout Brazil a few years ago, I couldn’t wait to go back for seconds, especially Rio. The city is blessed with sexy curves (the natural mountainous kinds), stunning beaches, colorful Portuguese designs, eye-popping architecture, and a lush tropical rainforest. The people are friendly and welcoming (not to mention beautiful), their famous caipirinhas drinks are devilishly delicious, and the food delightful. Their energy is infectious and the samba dancing a must! I would highly recommend spending at least one week in Rio, to see the iconic landmarks, sights and beaches. Ipanema, Copacabana and Barra de Tijuca have some of the best beaches in Rio. There’s a reason, that so many have written songs about these places. It is also vital to visit the Sugarloaf mountain, the statue of Christ the Redeemer, which is perched atop the Corcovado mountain as the protector of Rio, the historical neighborhood of Santa Teresa and the famous colorful steps known as Escadaria Selaron in the bohemian district, Lapa.

Rio De Janeiro
Photo by: Jenny Karakaya

RELATED: Turkey Travel and Safety Tips for Women

If you have the budget, I highly recommend booking a helicopter tour. It is by far the BEST thing I have experienced in Rio. Tripadvisor has several tour companies for all the above, so my best advice is to do the research and see what fits best for you. However, every resourceful and famous city, has its good and bad side. Rio has a very high percentage of poverty, which keeps their crime rate steadily high. There are several favelas piled up the mountains, which are otherwise known as the slums or ghettos of Brazil. Where there is great poverty and crime. Unfortunately, this is mostly due to their notoriously corrupt government.

For now, it is highly recommended to continue taking precautions and following these Brazil safety tips while traveling in the country.

1 – Never be flashy. Dress like a modest local and wear nothing valuable, especially jewelry.

2 – Always carry a smaller purse or fanny pack. Strap it across your chest. There have been instances where purses have been grabbed or a strap cut off by bikers. So look for anti-theft bags where you can cut the straps off.

3 – Never use your phone openly or wave it around in crowds. If you are on a tour, then it’s usually safer to take pics with your phone, but not when alone. Same goes for professional cameras. If you are there for Carnival, never take your phone out of your pocket in crowds or better yet, leave it at home. There is pick-pocketing open grabbing everywhere.

4 – Never walk through a favela alone or with friends. There are designated tours for this, which are safe as long as the tour guide is a local from the favela you are touring. Be aware that there are armed police everywhere and they can open fire in a favela at any time, if they suspect criminal activity.

5 –  Avoid the beaches at night. Period. You will get mugged.

6 – Never get drunk and if you do go out drinking, stick with a trustworthy and reliable group of friends. The men are very forward in wanting to stop and kiss women in the street (especially during Carnival), so all women should have some male friends out with them, just in case. This is also considered a crime now, so you can report any aggressive behavior to a police officer, if necessary.

7 – The Favela drug dealers are always out at night looking to make a sale. Just say no.

8-Upon arrival book a taxi inside the airport from an agency. It will cost a little more, but this is a way to avoid the scam of a shady unregistered drivers robbing you, taking all your luggage and money. There have been reports of both the driver and passenger are held up, but the driver is in on it and takes his cut later.

9–Don’t wear headphones in public. Chances are you won’t be as aware of your surroundings and people around you if you’re listening to music and you open yourself up to a potential attack.

10–Always try to use an ATM located in a secure area such as a bank, airport or government building.

Don’t let any of these Brazil safety tips and guidelines scare you off or prevent you from visiting this mind-blowing place. Rio is worth the journey, as long as you are aware and prepared. Get your Saude (cheers)!


Thailand Smoking Ban–Everything You Need to Know

The Thailand smoking ban, which was put into effect in February 2019, prohibits people from lighting up in several public places including beaches, airports and hotels. Here’s everything you need to know.

Attention smokers: Be mindful of where you take a smoke break in Thailand. The country has had enough of cigarette butts being left behind by thoughtless smokers, so a ban has been implemented. Offenders will be charged a fine up to 5,000 bhat–roughly $160.00 USD.

The new Thailand smoking ban, which includes vaping and e-cigarettes, already prevents people from smoking on beaches. But now there’s many more additional no smoking zones. The new regulations from the Ministry of Public Health state smoking is illegal at the following locations:

  • airports
  • amusement parks and water parks
  • banks/cash machines/ATMs
  • cinemas and other entertainment venues
  • condos, apartments & rental buildings
  • fitness parks and gyms
  • government offices
  • hospitals and clinics
  • hotels
  • grocery stores
  • libraries
  • laundries
  • massage and spa venues
  • public parking areas
  • pubs
  • religious buildings
  • restaurants
  • schools and nurseries
  • shopping malls
  • swimming pools
  • toilets (public toilets)
  • various transportation areas including bus stops, piers and taxi/mini-van stands

One thing for smokers to note is that the Thailand smoking ban is now not just prohibiting smoking inside some buildings, but also outside if it’s within 5 meters of a public entrance or exit. While the new Thailand smoking ban is much stricter, in some cases there will be smoking rooms and areas allowed at transportation hubs and other venues. No smoking signs will be prominently featured.

The Thailand smoking ban was first created after the Department of Marine and Coastal Resources (DMCR) revealed it cleans up tens of thousands of cigarette butts left on Thailand beaches.


Filmmaker Ashley Bell Documents the Plight and Hope for Asian Elephants

Filmmaker Ashley Bell Documents the Plight and Hope for Asian Elephants in “Love & Bananas: An Elephant Story”

By Angela Dawson

Actress Ashley Bell is best known for portraying a young woman possessed by the devil in the horror franchise “The Last Exorcism.” And now the native Angeleno confronts another type of evil, an atrocity against nature committed by man, in a documentary she produced, co-wrote and directed called “Love & Bananas: An Elephant Story.”

In her directorial debut, Bell sheds light on the plight of the Asian elephant, a species threatened with extinction. Numbering just 45,000, the Asian elephant population has declined precipitously in recent years for a variety of reasons, mostly caused by humans. Having once roamed the Asian and Southeast Asian jungles freely, these elephants—smaller in size and in numbers than their African counterparts—are in trouble because their natural habitats are being destroyed by logging and deforestation. Further, these intelligent creatures are often captured and sold to circuses and trekking companies for tourists or used as service animals in the logging industry.

In her revealing documentary, Bell shows surveillance footage of the animals being abused and confined for days in what is called a “crush box” where they are chained and beaten to destroy their spirit so they can be trained to perform for humans. But there’s a bright side to the story. There are some organizations trying to save the species by rescuing Asian elephants from unspeakable conditions and bringing them to sanctuaries. One of these rescuers is Sangduen “Lek” Chailert, a Cambodian elephant conservationist, who has saved more than 200 elephants over the past 20 years. Time magazine has dubbed her a Hero of Asia. She and her team at the Cambodia Wildlife Sanctuary rescue abused and sick Asian elephants, rehabilitate them and allows them to live in the wild on a Cambodian preserve.

Bell had visited Cambodia once before to document the rescue of two service elephants—a male and female—but that didn’t work out. A few years later, the 31-year-old actress-filmmaker and her film crew joined Lek in an attempt to rescue a 70-year-old blind elephant named Noi Na, who like so many elephants in captivity, had been mistreated throughout most her life. The trekking company that owned her was finally willing to release the sick old elephant to Chailert. But first they had to go get her 500 miles away in neighboring Thailand.

The documentary explores that daring rescue operation, which was both complicated and dangerous as the elderly pachyderm is naturally frightened of boarding a truck. But with Chailert’s experienced hand and helpers, Noi Na eventually is coaxed onto the vehicle for the 23-hour journey to freedom at the sanctuary. Bell and her crew are there to chronicle every minute of the nail-biting rescue, which presents all sorts of hazards, including potential red tape as the truck crosses the international border and a frightened and blind and elephant that could faint at any moment from heatstroke in the jungle heat.

Bell is seen throughout as she interviews Lek and her rescue team and goes on the long and difficult journey to save the endangered animal, pouring water on Noi Na to keep her cool and petting her occasionally. Then there is the slow and careful process of introducing her to her new herd.

The actress spoke by phone about her debut documentary and how she hopes the film will inspire others to want to help save the Asian elephant from extinction. For further information, visit loveandbananas.com.

Q: What initially brought you to Thailand and Cambodia?

Bell: A family friend, David Casselman, who owns the Cambodia Wildlife Sanctuary, had been looking for 10 years with Lek to rescue two elephants to release onto the sanctuary. He finally found them and I got an email saying, “We’re going to release them. Anybody who wants to come and watch this can.” And it hit me. I said, “I have to film this. It’s going to be a short (film). It’s going to be a happily-ever-after story.” I pitched the project to Change for Balance Productions, which was onboard from Day 1. Before we knew it, we were in Cambodia.

When we got there, it was a disaster. The elephants were in horrendous condition. They were covered in abscesses and scars. They were malnourished and dehydrated. The forest was being illegally logged and poached. When I stepped off the plane, I asked what the smoky smell was and was told it from the clearcutting of the forest. Seventy-five percent of the Cambodian jungle—at least that was the percentage at the time—is gone. Through it all, I saw Lek fighting on the front lines with such hope to save the species every day. I knew that I had to use what I had at my disposal to tell this story. That’s when I decided to make this documentary.

Two and a half years later I brought my crew—three guys—when we went on the elephant rescue. For a documentary, it was extremely bare bones and guerilla. A lot of what we learned on the first trip was the sensitivity and care you have to have around the elephants. These elephants are extremely mentally and physically damaged. They’ve gone through years of abuse and suffering. For example, if we approached on one side of the Noi Na on the first day, she would get very upset. If the boom (mic) got in the way, or if we had an agenda, it wouldn’t happen. Knowing that, we all game-changed quickly, and made sure to get as close as we could and switch our gear to get us as close as we could for the audience, while being extremely sensitive to the elephants.

Q: Were there moments in the truck ride from Thailand to Cambodia where you wondered, “What am I doing?”

Bell: For sure. When Lek walked me through the truck before we (mounted the rescue), she pointed out the bed she made for herself and said, “We’ll be here with Noi Na because she’ll be scared and frightened.” Lek did not leave the truck—it was incredible.

When we first loaded Noi Na, she wasn’t eating or drinking and I had my hand on one of two beams that separated us from Noi Na, and Lek so delicately took my hand and moved it to the other side of the beam because she was afraid that Noi Na was going to crush my hand. It was at that moment that I thought, “What have I gotten myself into?” (She laughs.) It was a mix of, “Oh boy, I’m on this truck for the next 23 hours” and “How blessed and fortunate I am to have that seat next to Lek and next to Noi Na and to be able to tell this story?”

Q: How long were you at the Cambodian Wildlife Sanctuary once you retrieved Noi Na?

Bell: Only about a week and a half. The rescue happened immediately, pretty much the way it unfolded in the film. It happened within three days of when we landed. We packed a night bag and were on the rescue. We were there a week and a half afterwards for filming to see what would happen. Noi Na was in medical quarantine for about a month before she was released into the herd. They do that with all the rescued elephants to make sure they’re OK. That’s Lek’s protocol to make sure everybody’s safe.

I checked back with Lek, and it took a couple of months —sometimes it can take years for the rescued elephant to find a friend, and even then, it sometimes doesn’t happen—but it took her a couple of months and she found a friend. I learned last month from Lek that Noi Na has found a second friend.

Q: How is Noi Na adjusting to the sanctuary?

Bell: Lek calls her “a naughty old girl.” She has friends. She loves to swim in the river. She has a ton of energy. Lek told me that recently she’s been making a ton of noise in the evening, trumpeting and pounding around. They’re trying to figure out what it is. But as Lek said in the documentary, all of these elephants have gone through mental distress, so they’re psychologically damaged. To this day, Noi Na, when she eats food, she stands in one place and reached her trunk as far as she can, to get the food and eat it as though she is still chained. You can see in the film where she scratches he back leg with her trunk where a chain used to be.

Q: Is it like a phantom chain?

Bell: Exactly. Something like a phantom chain is so specific, so harrowing for this creature, which is such an intelligent and sentient being. The reason why captivity is so damaging is because they’re so intelligent that when left naturally in the wild, they travel miles and miles to forage for food and water and live and play and investigate, and when they don’t have that stimulation and access, and are in captivity, they begin to go crazy. You can see how it affects them acutely and specifically in every single elephant, just as it would a human. It was shocking to learn that.

Q: Audiences may want to know what they can do to help save these Asian elephants.

Bell: That’s a huge part of the release of the film. We launched an impact campaign. We’ve created our website—www.loveandelephants.com—to be a hub for immediate action. There’s a petition you can sign. You can sign a humane traveler pledge. Also, the key to saving the species is education, so we have social media resources that you can grab and post. When people know better, they do better. We’ve partnered with GreaterGood, which has launched The Love & Bananas Fund, inspired by the film. It’s currently raising money for Lek’s wish list and to get an elephant out of Laos.

It was my goal with this film to make change but to also make change accessible with the same spirt of hope and victory with which Lek works. It’s such an honor to partner with GreaterGood to do this.

Also, if “Love & Bananas” isn’t at a theater near you, you can bring it to a community with a community screening, an in-home screening or a school screening. We have the resources to bring this to an interested community, big or small.

Q: As a first-time filmmaker, what did you learn?

Bell: I just released an e-book called “Shoot it, Sell It, Show It: How I Made an Independent Film with Grit & Google.” I kept a journal of my experience for the past five years. And it’s all the tips, tricks and pieces of advice that I learned to help inspire other filmmakers, to help them and save them any heartbreaks that I went through.

I learned a lot from Lek, who has used the press and the media as her main form of dissent to protect herself and her work. She goes with a camera around her neck everywhere to document what’s happening to the elephants and herself. She has a film team with her as a form of protection. I’m so impressed that my generation and the younger generation, which is who we wanted to target, and make it appealing and fun, to see an animal movie. I want to introduce everybody to Lek. There are a lot of followers in this world, but very few heroes, and Lek is a hero of mine, so I can’t wait to get this message out there.


Animal Abuse at ElephantsWorld in Kanchanaburi, Thailand – Don’t Volunteer Here

This review is from a girl I know who didn’t want her name to be public, but what she witnessed was awful, and this needs to be addressed.

I wanted to share my experience volunteering at ElephantsWorld in Kanchanaburi, Thailand, in hopes that no one will go there when visiting Thailand. Please be sure to do all your research when visiting anything involving animal tourism. This place has fantastic Trip Advisor reviews, and caught all us volunteers by surprise. If you’re interested, the following is the review I posted on their facebook page. DO NOT SUPPORT ELEPHANTS WORLD!!!

I just completed 30 days of volunteering at ElephantsWorld and I struggle to find the words to describe my experience. This is NOT a sanctuary. It is NOT nonprofit (as it says on all the brochures and website). I beg you NOT to spend your money and come here, it will only contribute to the current construction of a spa as well as the purchasing of more elephants- when the ones already here are not taken care of. I should also mention that about half the elephants here are paid for monthly and rented, not donated, in order to maintain the heavy flow of tourism this business gets. This review is directed only at the owner, Mr. Samart, and his wife Fawn, who would both be better suited for the poaching industry. A large group of us volunteers brought up all of the following issues of what happens “behind closed doors” to the two of them in two separate meetings last week, where we offered our concerns accompanied by constructive ideas all directed to improve the welfare and lives of the elephants residing here. After the meeting we were told things would begin to change. The next morning we learned the volunteer program had been cancelled.

There is no maximum amount of people allowed to visit per day. The owner sets a maximum, and when it is reached, he simply increases the maximum limit to accomodate for as many visitors- and as much money- as he can get per day. This means that one volunteer tour guide could have up to 15 people in their group washing ONE elephant at the end of the day. With this many people surrounding one elephant, they get distressed and nervous, as evidenced by them rocking back and forth in the water. If you’re wondering if they are enjoying “bath time” with this many people, take a step back and watch the mahouts with their bullhooks, which are always hooked onto the elephants in the water to force them to stay in. You can even see elephants attempting to get out and the mahouts forcing them to get back in for the tourists to continue washing (they do this, of course, because the Mr. Samart tells them to). To be clear, bathing the elephants is an activity for tourists, not for elephants. They are animals and are more than capable of bathing themselves. They are made to do “tricks” such as spray water at the tourists, something they learned in the past through abuse and submission. Some elephants (even ones that got the most nervous in the water with people) were forced into getting bathed by tourists up to three times a day.

The motto “we work for the elephants, the elephants not for us” couldn’t be more false. These elephants are NOT free, they are on a schedule 364 days a year with up to 150 visitors a day. No, they never get time off nor time to roam around free. Baby elephant Spy has a foot issue that needs to be treated by the vet students (students, because the owner won’t pay for a veterinarian) in healthcare every day. However, if Spy is running behind schedule that day then she skips healthcare, since the owner wants to make sure every visitor gets to be around the baby- the pride and joy of ElephantsWorld. Priorities.

Speaking of babies, let’s talk about Jarunee. She’s an elephant that was away for several weeks during my time at EW. Where was she? She was transported to a city up north to be raped by male elephants, in hopes that she would get pregnant so ElephantsWorld could have a new baby elephant for tourists to gawk at and wash. When that didn’t work, the owner decided to purchase a new tusked male elephant to impregnante another one of the females. I say purchased because this elephant came from a village, not a trekking camp, but apparently it looks “cool” to have an elephant with tusks here. So now he’s breeding into captivity. How’s that for a “sanctuary”?

What’s sad about this purchase is that EW already has another male named Johnny, who is 10 years old, and has gotten increasingly more aggressive over his 6 years at EW (which happens with male elephants- this is a fact and can be expected). Instead of buying Johnny a bullpen to give him the area he needs to move around, they have had him tied to a tree for the last one year- all day and all night. When confronting the owner about Johnny, he says there is no money to give Johnny what he needs, yet he just purchased a new elephant. Where else is your money going? Probably to the SPA and BAR being built at ElephantsWorld- which is apparently more important than the welfare of the elephants.

The day the new male elephant arrived from his village they walked him straight off the truck into the water for my group to wash. They put a MASSIVE tusked elephant in a new environment with a new mahout after a several hour journey straight into the water with visitors. They did NOT know his temperament or how he would react. I’m not sure I’ve ever been so nervous watching this happen or so thankful that luckily nothing did happen. The owner’s wife ordered this of course, and said it’s ok because she heard he was a “nice elephant.” Two days later this elephant nearly killed someone. Another day I was there one of the most violent elephants charged at a group of tourists, had she not been chained to the tree someone could have been killed. There are NO safety standards here, what’s important to the owner is that the visitors are able to see as many elephants as possible during their day there, regardless of the safety of visitors or the welfare of the elephants. There are many elephants during mud bath time that are incredibly violent (one of which ripped someones arm off in the past) and shouldn’t be around people at all. But in the owners eyes- the more the merrier!

Let’s talk about the mahouts, who the owner and his wife treat worse than animals. They are all hardworking refugees who put their lives on the line everyday with these unpredictable animals. They are paid next to nothing, lower than thai minimum wage, with not enough money to afford food or basic life necessities. The owner recently took their kitchen away and they are not even allowed to drink the WATER at ElephantsWorld like the rest of us. What happens to all the leftover food from the buffet-style lunch and dinners you ask? It gets fed to the dogs.

I urge you to please spend/donate your money elsewhere. I wish I could tell you your money was contributing to the construction of a bullpen for Johnny, or healthcare for the sick and old elephants, or the hiring of a real veterinarian and not students (who are amazing and caring and do a fantastic job with the limited tools and resources they are given!). But I can’t. Your money is going to the purchasing of more elephants so EW can continue breeding into captivity and obtaining more elephants that won’t be properly cared for, and to the construction of a spa for overnight visitors.

Volunteering here was a horribly sad experience, with many tears shed by all of us. The only reason any of us stayed was to spread the truth to the visitors we guided, in hopes that honesty and transparency could make some positive impact. It seems that in the past the only changes made at EW by the owner were a result of negative Trip Advisor/social media reviews. I beg you, if you do come to this “sanctuary” please go into your experience with open eyes and leave an honest review. Hopefully this review will make some positive impact in the lives of these magnificent animals, who deserve a better and more free life where they’re truthfully NOT working for humans anymore.

Thank you all so much for your comments and caring words! Please feel free to copy and paste the text (apparently it can’t be shared) to post for yourself! The only way to stop businesses like this is to stop the heavy volume of tourism it gets. Since posting this two weeks ago, the new male has been chained to a tree on all four legs and they have purchased a new pregnant violent female.

For all of those talking about going to/volunteering at another sanctuary, I believe a good rule of thumb is this- if it offers an activity that is for tourists and NOT for elephants, it is not a sanctuary (in my opinion). For example, elephants are fully capable of feeding and bathing themselves, they absolutely do not need people to do it for them. Activities such as filling fruit baskets based on their different dietary needs and then giving them the fruit to eat for themselves, and planting/cutting corn are great activities that help and do not disrupt the elephants’ environment! Ideally, in a sanctuary there should be no contact with the elephants, only observation. Interaction benefits humans, not elephants.


Kenya – 20 Travel and Safety Tips

Kenya is known for its natural beauty, wonderful people, exquisite wildlife and endless adventures, Kenya has become a popular destination for travelers. The African country offers luxury world renowned safaris, pristine white sand beaches and fantastic local cuisine, while still being affordable for most tourists, which is another great reason to visit Kenya.

Lake Nakuru National Park, which is a great place to safari! Photo by: Heather Newgen

However, like many other countries, there can be political unrest at times, high levels of crime and increased terrorism risks, so it’s essential to stay well-informed. Traveling around Kenya is a magical experience, but to make it a safe one as well, here are some tips to help plan your journey:

Lake Nakuru
Photo by: Carolyn Eastman

1. Check the Travel.gov site for any safety warnings. For instance, on September 1, 2017, the U.S. Departmentissued a warning to U.S. citizens to avoid traveling to the border area between Somalia and Kenya due to terrorist threats and the high risk of crime throughout the country.

2. Make sure to research the visa requirements before. I’m from the U.S. and I was able to get my visa at the Nairobi airport when I arrived, However, that may not be the case for everyone. Plus it was a long line, so consider getting a visa ahead of time.

3. While most people in Nairobi speak English, you should still learn a few basic words. And if you are a caucasian, you will be referred to as a Muzungu, which you’ll probably hear a lot.

Heather Newgen and her new friend Peter she made in Nakuru Photo by: Carolyn Eastman

4. Kenyans are very welcoming and will oftentimes invite you over for a meal–at least I found this to be the case. It’s considered disrespectful if you don’t accept food. So even if you have to politely nibble, do it. Otherwise you will be seen as rude and insulting.

5. As a vegetarian, I was able to find things to eat—mostly beans and rice, which I was totally fine with. Most Kenyans aren’t vegetarian—they love their meat, and meat dishes pretty much rule every restaurant menu. If you’re invited to a local’s house for a meal, let them know ahead of time of your dietary restrictions. However, there are more places starting to offer veg items, so ask around and find out which restaurants are veg friendly.

6. It’s a fact that Muzungus/tourists will be charged more for items than locals, but it’s still cheaper than what you’d pay at home, so keep that in mind. That said, you should absolutely bargain at markets. It’s expected, but don’t negotiate too low. Making and selling tourist trinkets is how locals earn an income. It’s their livelihood.

7. Don’t drive unless you have to, because it can be overwhelming, especially in Nairobi at night. Traffic is insane at rush hour, addresses are almost nonexistent, signs are poorly marked and road conditions aren’t great. In addition, pedestrian death rates are high according to several sources, for a numerous reasons such as “The mix of slow-moving pedestrians and fast-moving vehicles and motorcycles inevitability leads to conflict in which the pedestrian always loses. In our setting, travel patterns are dominated by walking and the absence of segregation between motorized and non-motorized traffic creates perilous situations in which pedestrians are exposed to the greatest risk of injury and death. Pedestrian facilities on our roads are minimal, insufficient and unsafe,” NTSA reports.

8. There’s a lot of stray dogs, and as an animal lover I wanted to pet them, but beware. When I tried to feed one at the volunteer house I was staying at (I was in Kenya to volunteer), I was attacked and had to be rushed to a hospital in Nairobi. If I hadn’t been wearing a puffy jacket and long-sleeved shirt, I literally wouldn’t have my right arm today. That coat saved me. So be careful and keep a distance. It’s unfortunate and sad, but it’s important to always take precautions.

Heather Newgen being treated in a Nairobi hospital after a dog attack

Heather Newgen’s arm after she was attacked by a dog in Nairobi

9. Walking in Nairobi is fine, but there have been reports of high petty theft crimes like robbery. So don’t walk with your phone in your hand because it can be swiped from you, and don’t wait alone outside for transportation. Wait inside your hotel, Airbnb, or hostel lobby until your car arrives. Consider getting a “cut proof” backpack so it can’t be cut off of you, don’t wear a lot of bling, don’t carry a lot of cash or credit cards with you—only bring what you need—and wear a money belt under your clothes. (This advice can apply to many other places besides Kenya as well. As always have street smarts when you travel.)

10. Don’t walk across the street talking on your phone. This is illegal and you can be arrested.

11. Keep your hotel/accommodation address and general directions with you at all times. It’s easy to forget exactly where you are located.

12. Have copies of your passport numbers and contact details copied in several locations, including on your person at all times in case your phone dies, gets lost, or is stolen (this should be done for every trip you take.)

13. Spitting on any footpath in Nairobi is illegal, so don’t be gross and do this.

14. If you’re a smoker, ask about smoking bans before lighting up. Many public places have smoking zones and if you’re not in one and you’re caught smoking, you will be fined. This law is heavily enforced.

15. The sun is strong since you’re closer to the equator, so lather up with sunblock before going out.

16. Anyone who does anything for you will expect a small tip. That goes from people at the airport trying to help you with your luggage, to people offering you directions. So use your judgement and decide if you want the service they’re selling you. If not, politely decline, but if you accept, know you should tip. At restaurants 10% is an appropriate amount to leave.

17. Not all taxis are metered, so make sure to agree on a flat rate before hopping in the cab. And stick to licensed taxis—don’t do unmarked ones.

18. Get the vaccines the CDC recommends. (this goes for any country you visit.)

19. Only drink bottled water.

20. Avoid going out at night and travel in groups whenever possible.


Jerusalem Travel Tips-Helpful Guidelines for Travelers

Jerusalem Travel and Safety Tips! No trip to Israel would be complete without a visit to Jerusalem–the Holy City for Christians, Muslims and Jews. While it’s a place of divineness and piety for many, for others it’s a place to see beautiful ancient buildings mixed with modern houses, magnificent landscapes, and colorful markets.

Located between the Dead Sea and the Mediterranean, Jerusalem is one of the oldest cities in the world and one of the most controversial. Both Israel and Palestine want the city as their capital because it has religious and historical significance to Islam and Judaism. That said, there has been public clashes between Israelis and Palestinians, sometimes leading to violence, which has many travelers wondering if Jerusalem is safe.

View of Jerusalem
Photo by: Heather Newgen

As someone who has been three times now to the Holy City without incident, I can tell you from my experiences that I have never felt in danger at any moment and never feared for my safety. It’s a regular city like LA or NYC, but it has a deep spirituality, mystic and charm, which makes Jerusalem that much more appealing.

The Stone of Anointing, which is located in the Holy Church of Sepulchre in Jerusalem

It’s an incredible city that everyone should visit without hesitation. Jerusalem is a must see, but  like any other city you’re traveling to, stay on top of the news and be informed about what’s happening there. Here’s a few things to keep in mind.

1. Bargain with the vendors in the Old City and Jerusalem markets, but be fair. This is their livelihood.

Photo by: Heather Newgen

2. Parking is difficult around the Old City, and traffic is insane. So hire a driver or tour guide, or take public transportation. Don’t rent a car and drive yourself. I went with Erez Yarkon Travel and had an incredible experience.

3. You should tip drivers and tour guides at least 10-15% of the total cost, same goes with tipping at restaurants.

4. The work week in Israel centers on the Jewish day of rest, Shabbat. Starting at sunset on Friday and ending at sunset on Saturday, many businesses close and services stop. This means no buses and fewer, more expensive taxis will run in Jerusalem during this time.  Many shops and restaurants shut for the entire period starting as early as 2 p.m. at winter time and 4:00p.m. during the summer. Some restaurants and bars are open in some area were the locals hangout in Jerusalem.

Damascus Gate– one of the main entrances into the Old City in Jerusalem Photo by: Heather Newgen

5. Levels of observance differ between cities, with Jerusalem more observant than Tel Aviv.

6. Make sure to wear comfortable good non-slip shoes in the Old City. The pavement can be slippery in Jerusalem.

The Tomb in the Holy Church of Sepulchre where many believe Jesus was buried

7. Bring a head scarf or shawl to Jerusalem. It’s helpful when needing to meet modest dress requirements in religious buildings.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre Photo by: Heather Newgen

8. Wear Long trousers or skirt – shorts and miniskirts are not acceptable attire in many churches and synagogues in Jerusalem, or at the Dome of the Rock.

Western Wall
Photo by: Heather Newgen

9. If you plan on taking a day trip from Jerusalem to Bethlehem you must pass through a checkpoint to enter, so make sure to have your passport with you. If you travel by taxi, you will need to find a driver with a non-Israeli passport to enter since the city is in Palestine. You can take a taxi to the check point cross and take local taxi , or ask your local agent to arrange for a tour guide or driver.


Israel Travel Guide-How to See Israel in Seven Days

How to See Israel in Seven Days–Suggested Itinerary and extensive Israel Travel Guide

Heather Newgen Profile PhotoBy: Heather Newgen | Twitter: @hnvoluntourist

Israel Travel Guide: With its religious and historical significance, beautiful beaches, delicious local cuisine and fun nightlife, Israel has been a popular tourist destination for quite some time. It’s not only the perfect place for those seeking a meaningful spiritual journey, but for anyone who wants to enjoy Israeli culture, dynamic landscape and an unforgettable adventure. There’s so much to see and do in Israel, but it’s possible to experience a lot of the country in just seven days. Here’s the itinerary I did on my last trip. I booked all my tours and airport transfers through Erez Yarkon Travel.

Note: For this Israel travel guide you will either need to rent a car, which I’ve done before, but Israelis are crazy drivers so beware, or take tours to do everything I did on this trip. Erez Yarkon Travel can provide a driver. I’ve used their services three times now and loved every trip.

RELATED: Your Ultimate Page Arizona Travel Guide with Horseshoe Bend, Upper and Lower Antelope Canyon Tips

Day 1 Tel Aviv 

Israel Travel Guide: Chances are you will fly into Ben Gurion Airport, which is about 12 miles outside of Tel Aviv. Most stay in the area for the first day or so because Tel Aviv is a great city to explore with its amazing beaches, restaurants and a lively night scene. Spend at least one night here. You can also check out Jaffa (also known as Jafo), which is just outside Tel Aviv. This is where it’s believed the Biblical story Jonah and the Whale took place.

Jaffa
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Must See Places in Tel Aviv:

Israel Travel Guide: Carmel Market, Yarkon Park, the beach, Yemenite Quarter,Neve Tzedek Quarter, Beit Hatefutsoth (the Diaspora Museum; also known as the Museum of the Jewish People), Tel Aviv Museum of Art and Sarona Market.

Beach in Tel Aviv, Israel Photo by: Heather Newgen

Carmel Market in Tel Aviv, Israel Photo by: Heather Newgen

Carmel Market in Tel Aviv, Israel
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Must See Places in Jaffa:

Israel Travel Guide: Jaffa flea market (which I loved much more than the Carmel Market), Old City Jaffa (there’s incredible views of the beach and Tel Aviv), the port where you can enjoy a glass of wine at one of the many great restaurants and watch the sunset.

Port in Jaffa–Israel
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Port in Jaffa–Israel Photo by: Heather Newgen

Day 2 Bethlehem

Israel travel Guide: Drive from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem (which is about an hour drive). From there, I went to  Bethlehem (a 15 minute drive from Jerusalem) and it’s a must for anyone visiting Israel. It’s actually Palestinian territory, therefore Israelis are not welcome to cross the checkpoint. Erez Yarkon Travel arranged for a Palestinian driver and guide to take me and made sure I was well taken care of. If you go on your own you can find Palestinian taxis near the Damascus Gate in Jerusalem, but I suggest you have a guide so you make the most of your time there. Plus a guide can give you all the historical and religious details of the area.

Must See Places in Bethlehem:

Israel Travel Guide: The Walled Off Hotel (Graffiti artist Banksy owns it and you can buy his work at the hotel). Church of the Nativity (where Jesus was born), The Chapel of the Milk Grotto (where Mary nursed Jesus), Mar Saba Monastery, Shepherd Fields and Aida Refugee Camp.


The Walled Off Hotel in Bethlehem Photo by: Heather Newgen

Inside The Walled Off Hotel
Photo by: Heather Newgen

The view from the lobby of The Walled Off Hotel
Photo by: Heather Newgen

This star marks where it’s believed baby Jesus was born in the Church of the Nativity–Bethlehem
Photo by: Heather Newgen
The Milk Grotto in Bethlehem
Photo by: Heather Newgen
Aida Refugee Camp in Bethlehem
Photo by: Heather Newgen
Aida Refugee Camp in Bethlehem Photo by: Heather Newgen

Israel Travel Guide: The Walled Off Hotel can arrange a tour for you to the Aida Refugee Camp and it’s about two hours long. You will have a guide who walks you over to the camp and from there someone else shows you how people in Aida live. It’s emotional and upsetting so be prepared.

Israel Travel Guide Tips: The best falafel stand is in Manager Square, which is where the Church of the Nativity is. It’s the only one, so you can’t miss it. It’s flavorful and cheap so be sure to stop by.

Falafel stand in Manger Square Photo by: Heather Newgen

Falafel stand in Manger Square
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Israel Travel Guide: For the most stunning view of the city go to the rooftop of the Blessings Gift Shop and Olive Wood Factory.

View of Bethlehem from Blessings Gift Shop and Olive Wood Factory Photo by: Heather Newgen

Israel Travel Guide: You can graffiti on the wall that separates Israel and Palestine. When you’re at The Walled Off, go next door to Wall-Mart and they will set it up for you.

Heather Newgen at The Walled Off Hotel spray painting on the wall that separates Israel and Palestine

Photo by: Heather Newgen

Israel Travel Guide: And finally, there’s also great souvenir shopping in Bethlehem, near the Milk Grotto where you can purchase beautiful olive wood Biblical carvings and other items. Most shops will offer you complimentary tea and make sure you bargain.

Since I’d been to Bethlehem before, I mostly wanted to hang out at the Walled Off Hotel. So I was only there a few hours. I went back to Jerusalem to stay the night and volunteer in the afternoon at the Yad Ezra V’Shulamitfood distribution center.

RELATED: Video-Volunteering at Yad Ezra V’Shulamit in Jerusalem

Day 3 Jerusalem 

Israel Travel Guide: Full day guided tour of Jerusalem. You need at least a day, if not two days here because there’s so much to see and do. This is one city where you don’t want to rush through. I started at the Garden Tomb, which is located outside of Jerusalem’s city walls. This is where many believe is the burial and resurrection site of Jesus Christ. Then I ventured my way into the narrow streets and alleyways that make up the labyrinth-like Old City, that’s divided into four different religious quarters-Christian, Jewish, Muslim and Armenian.

The Garden Tomb
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Must See Places in Jerusalem: 

Christian Quarter (Runs North from the Jaffa Gate, which is the traditional pilgrim to the city)

Israel Travel Guide: The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is the other location where many believe is the true place of Jesus’ crucifixion and burial. It’s one of the holist sites for Christians, the Neo-Romanesque Lutheran Church of the Redeemer, the Muristan, a marketplace built over the ruins of a longtime Knights Hospitaller hospital for pilgrims and Jerusalem residents and the Christian Quarter Shuk.

Inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Jewish Quarter

Israel Travel Guide: Hurva Synagogue (must take a tour to visit), the Cardo was Jerusalem’s main street 1500 years ago and it’s now lined with shops and part of the Cardo has been restored to look like it would have in Roman times and the Wailing Wall also known as the Western Wall. It’s the last remaining part of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem, which was destroyed in 70 CE by Titus and the Roman Legions. Here you will see people praying at the wall and leaving notes and prayers in the cracks for God to read. It’s considered the holiest place for Jews, but anyone is welcome to visit.

Western Wall in Jerusalem
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Israel Travel Guide Tips: You will go through a metal detector and your bags must go through an ex-ray machine before you’re allowed to enter. Men and women are separated when praying, never turn your back to the wall because it’s considered to be disrespectful, so you will literally see people walking backwards to avoid this, you should wash your hands before entering–there’s a fountain outside for this purpose, and dress modestly.

Muslim Quarter

Israel Travel Guide: The Temple Mount (No Jewish or Christian pray allowed), Dome of the Rock (Non-Muslims are not allowed inside), Damascus Gate (Main entry point to the Muslim Quarter), Olive Press Street (Lively market with souvenirs to fresh produce) and Church of St. Anne.

Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Armenian Quarter

-St. James Church

Israel Travel Guide: Other must see things in Jerusalem: Via Dolorosa, which is believed to be the path where Jesus took his final steps. It runs throughout the Old City and if you have a guide they can explain the significance of each point on the route. Garden of Gethsemane is where Jesus prayed and slept with his disciples the night before his crucifixion, The Last Supper Room, Mount of Olives, City of David and Hezekiah’s Tunnels, Mahane Yehuda, which is a cool market place where everyone hangs out at night and the Israel Museum.

Garden of Gethsemane in Jerusalem
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Day 4 Dead Sea and Masada

Israel Travel Guide: You can do both in a day, but I would visit Masada first so you can spend the rest of the day relaxing at the Dead Sea. There are some resorts at the Dead Sea that have showers so you can get ready again, but that’s such a hassle. Do Masada first, then the Dead Sea.

Masada
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Israel Travel Guide Tips: Do not get the water in your eyes at the Dead Sea because it will badly sting. Make sure to lather up with mud since it’s good for your skin and beware of sink holes in certain locations. They can open up without warning and it’s dangerous.

Dead Sea
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Dead Sea Sink Holes Photo by: Heather Newgen

Day 5 Caesarea, Haifa Gardens, Golan Heights

Israel Travel Guide: Head north of Israel to see Caesarea, a town on the coast, which is known for having Roman ruins on the beach. It wasn’t my favorite thing to do, so if you’re running short on time, this would be the one thing to skip. Next up is the famous Haifa Gardens, which are beautiful, then Golan Heights for wine tasting, which was fantastic.

Caesarea Photo by: Heather Newgen

Haifa Gardens Photo by: Heather Newgen

Israel Travel Guide: For the Golan Heights Winery, Erez Yarkon Travel set up a private tour for me, which included lunch, a tour of the facility and a jeep tour to the vineyards. It was one of the highlights of my vacation. From there we went to De Karina Boutique Chocolate Factory and learned how to make candy. If you’re looking for activities you can do with kids, this is a fun one. We stayed the night in the area.

Golan Heights Winery
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Day 6 Nazareth and Cana

Israel Travel Guide: You can visit both places in the same day. The main thing to see in Cana is the Wedding Church, which is where Jesus performed His first miracle of turning water into wine. It’s also fun to walk around the area where the church is because the streets are really cute and there’s shops where you can get items like olive oil and wine, but I only spent two hours in Cana, which was plenty of time.

Wedding Church in Cana
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Must See Places in Nazareth 

Israel Travel Guide: Basilica of the Annunciation, which is where the angel Gabriel descends from Heaven to tell the Virgin Mary she was pregnant with Jesus. Even if you aren’t Christian, you should visit the site because it’s one of the most beautiful churches. Mary’s Well where the water is supposed to have healing powers, St. Gabriel’s Church is the other site where people believe Mary was informed of her pregnancy, Nazareth Village, the Shuk, Chapel of Fright and the Salesian Church of Jesus the Adolescent is a stunning gothic style church that is worth seeing, but you must climb 250 stairs so wear comfortable shoes.

Nazareth, Israel
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Day 7 Mitzpe Ramon to Eilat to Jordan

Israel Travel Guide: This was an ambitious travel day, but I wanted to spend the night in Wadi Rum Desert in Jordan so we quickly drove through Mitzpe Ramon to see the crater, which is like a mini version of the Grand Canyon and so amazing to see, then to Eilat where we didn’t spend much time, but it’s great for people who dive, then to the border where Erez Yarkon Travel had a driver waiting for me once I walked across into Jordan.

Israel Travel Guide Tips: There’s a cool alpaca farm in Mitzpe Ramon that you must check out. From there it’s a 20 minute hike to see the crater and it’s something you should make time to do.

Heather Newgen at Alpaca Farm in Israel

Mitzpe Ramon Crater Photo by: Heather Newgen

Israel Travel Guide: Another unique thing to do, which I did on a previous trip was Rosh HaNikra. They’re under water caves near the Lebanon border. You can only get to them by a short cable car ride.

Heather Newgen at Rosh HaNikra in Israel

Israel Travel Guide: And finally other things to see include the Sea of Galilee and the two spots where it’s believed Jesus was baptized Qasr al-Yehud and Yardenit.

Qasr al-Yehud

Israel Travel Guide: Christians view this as the traditional site where Jesus was baptized. Located on the Jordan River it can be hard to find on your own, so while you don’t need a guide to be there, it’s better to have one so you won’t spend all day searching for the location. There are groups of tourists there daily, but there isn’t anyone official on site, meaning religious leaders aren’t hanging around waiting to baptize tourists. It’s just a small place on the river that doesn’t look very impressive, but is considerably meaningful for so many. Anyone can be baptized there and I saw some people who had a minister with them, but I also saw people who went in by themselves, dunked their heads under the water and then got out. So it’s really your preference as to what you’d like to do, but in terms of having a religious leader there, that’s something a tour guide could arrange for you.

Qasr al-Yehud Photo by: Heather Newgen

Yardenit

Israel Travel Guide: If you’re looking for a more commercialized experience, then Yardenit is the location you should visit. This is the other spot where it’s believed Jesus was baptized and it’s also on the Jordan River and much easier to find. There’s a gift shop where you can pick up souvenirs  from the Dead Sea, beauty products or religious items. There are showers, restrooms and a small juice stand. In addition, you can arrange for a religious leader to be there for your baptism through Yardenit, but you need to ask them a few days in advance to have someone there. I’m not sure what the fee is because I didn’t do it, but another option is to ask a minister who is already there with a group to baptize you. I was told that was perfectly acceptable to do so.

Yardenit in Israel
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Yardenit in Israel
Photo by: Heather Newgen

Israel Travel Guide: Erez Yarkon Travel arranged my entire trip from flights to tours to accommodations and ground transportation. They even set up my tours in Jordan and Cairo. The guides and drivers were professional, knowledgable and I had an incredible time.